Oz Clarke's 250 Best Wines Buying Guide 2011

2008 Chablis Premier Cru Côte de Léchet, Vincent Dampt, Burgundy, France

"Real, high-quality Chablis is a balm to the soul. The Premier Crus are mostly a little riper than they were a decade ago, but they still appear unadorned, unbejewelled, in a white wine world where alcohol and oak are too much ascendant. The ripeness here shows in some creamy texture and a hint of honey, but even such flavours seem to have a stony rub to them ; the lemon acidity seems to be squeezed through stones. Chablis prides itself on minerality. This wine demonstrates what the word means."

October 2010, Anova Books